Traveling Canada by VIA Rail Train is a First-Class, Stress-Free Way to Stay and Play

by Darin Bunch

All I could see were stars.

The train rolled out of Kamloops around midnight, so I had flipped my sleeping arrangement around to stare out the window into the dark night. And once the lights from town faded, the constellations in slow concert with the fast-moving train lulled me into a comfortable, relaxing sleep after two long days of battling triple digits, both on the temperature gauge and my Tobiano scorecard.

Bright morning sunshine slapped me in the face, and I looked out to find us rolling down the river on our way into Vancouver, the final destination on a 10-day journey that had started in Edmonton and wound its way into Jasper before our stop in Kamloops. Having driven part of the trip because of unforeseen circumstances, I appreciated the train even more, with its small but not cramped, air-conditioned berth. And, as I do at home most every day, I pulled the shades and went back to sleep.

But there was far more to this trip than the train. And far more than golf, too. In fact, some of my most memorable moments in Canada took place far away from the fairways and greens.

On our first night, my friends and I walked from our chic hotel, The Matrix, to the annual Taste of Edmonton festival, a street faire where local restaurants stretch out for blocks serving up small portions of their best dishes. From ribs to mini burgers, dumplings to teriyaki salmon, an hour mixing and matching cuisines would rival most any meal you’d find at even the best of eateries.

Then there was the living history lesson at Fort Edmonton Park, where “actors” play the parts of those who populated this piece of the West during the late 1800s and early 1900s. And Shakespeare in the Park in Kamloops, where the performance was actually in a neighborhood park filled with the friendly residents I encountered at every turn.

In Jasper, near the midpoint of the trip, we took a leisurely hike to a glacier-fed lake and later rode the rapids of those distinctive green waters while rafting the river closer to the historic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge, where our cozy four-room cottage was visited each afternoon by a herd of grazing elk just outside the back porch.

And on the final leg of the trip, we strolled down from the Listel Hotel to line the beach with thousands of others for the Celebration of Light Fireworks Competition, the glow of each blast reflecting off the water and surrounding buildings.

In between, there was golf. Lots of golf. From Northern Bear outside Edmonton, where the staff has done a remarkable job maintaining the course despite crippling water issues, to Sun Rivers in Kamloops, where the course is built into the hillside overlooking the city and mountains beyond, each round brought new challenges and forged new friendships.

And then there were the Big Dogs — Tobiano and Jasper Park, two courses as different as desert and forest and yet equally enjoyable.

Tobiano is a graceful beast, almost painted atop plateaus overlooking the adjacent lake, which train tracks skirt en route to destinations east and west. It requires precision, eating up errant shots with snake-infested scrub teeth that force you to accept the local “lateral drop” rule. Tobiano is one of those courses that says come and get me, and when you’re successful, the reward is as sweet as a summer rain shower. It’s a place that can’t be truly appreciated with only one round of golf.

Jasper Park, on the other hand, feels like a friend. Perhaps it’s Stanley Thompson, the grandfather of Canadian golf architecture, who infused every bit of that pleasing atmosphere, both to the eyes and the senses. Of course, friends are not always friendly, and Jasper Park’s 18 holes can be as dramatic as the surrounding scenery and peaks in the distance, with demanding 3-pars, tree-lined drives and sneaky greens that can leave you muttering to yourself with a Canadian accent before the round is over.

But even with all the golf, food, travel and luxury that was packed into our VIA Rail-powered journey, my absolute favorite memory was forged on the way to a golf course rather than during the subsequent round. On our final day, we left Vancouver for Furry Creek, a Robert Muir Graves design about 40 minutes north by car. Instead, we took the “Sea to Tee” option across the Howe Sound in a 28-foot rigid-hull inflatable boat, stopping to sightsee everything from bald eagles to sunbathing seals before landing on the beach in front of the 14th green. It was a day that ruined standard shuttle service for me, just as traveling the Stay and Play Express makes me wonder why anyone would ever drive across the border. FG

Published in FG Magazine, March 2010

AMERICA'S MOST HONORED MAGAZINE AT ING AWARDS
It’s getting to be a habit, and we can’t seem to help ourselves. For the fourth straight year, FG racked up an impressive load of hardware at the International Network of Golf Media Awards announced at January’s PGA Merchandise Show. We scored six awards in all, besting writers and photographers from such national publications as GolfWeek and Sports Illustrated. First-place honors went to Vic Williams in Competition Writing for his piece on Tiger’s historic U.S. Open victory (July-August 2008), Joann Dost for her epic shot of Tiger’s 72nd hole putt on Open Sunday; and Calder Chism for his “Weekend Wisdom” drawing of Vic in the May-June 2008 issue. Outstanding Achievement awards went to Williams and Darin Bunch for Travel Writing. Other FG contributors who took home awards included Tony Dear and Bob Seligman. Next year, look for the clean sweep.